Epoxy floor coating is a flooring surface comprised of multiple layers of epoxy applied to a floor to a depth of less than two millimeters. Epoxy comprises resins and Epoxy Floors hardeners. The resin and hardener are mixed together to chemically react. This forms a rigid naff that is strong, resistant to destruction, and which bonds very well to its substrate.
Epoxy floors are incredibly strong and can be used in the most demanding industrial environments as well as provide a beautiful addition to a regular trafficked floor. High grade epoxy resin is used to upgrade surfaces, obtain colored effects, protect floors against rust, and achieve a water tight effect. All of these qualities provide longer durability of surfaces.
Applying your own epoxy flooring to a commercial building or a room in your house can be easier than expected. First, you must determine if the floor has a coating on it. Epoxy coatings will react with previously installed coatings. Polyurethane and latex floor paints will not try a new epoxy floor. Therefore, you will need to deprive a polyurethane or latex floor before applying epoxy.
Oil or fat stain remains must be removed before beginning any epoxy application. An industrial degreaser or solvent cleaner will get rid of those stains. You need to be aware in order to prevent asphyxiation or combustion during this step. Plastic remains will need to be sanded or grounded off.
To find previous coating, take a small cup of muriatic acid mixed four parts water one part acid. Drip small amounts of the solution onto various areas of a floor. Areas that are not different in color, texture, or shininess need to be taken care of. The solution will fizz yellow if there is no coating present.
Presoak a floor with a garden hose to ensure the entire floor is humid. Mix one gallon of the mixed water and acid solution. The acid should be muriatic or a masonry cleaner. Smoothly put the gallon to cover 60 to 70 to 100 sq feet. Try to keep the work contained to squares.
A stiff bristled shop broom will be the simplest way to apply in a scrubbing motion. A foamy white reaction will occur. Rinse a floor well with water. Broom out excessive water. Allow the floor to totally dry. Moisture trapped under the epoxy coating will cause the bond to weaken or fail between the coating and concrete surface.
Drying out should take place between seven to ten days. Test dryness by placing an appartment, moisture proof object, such as a plastic tile, on to the ground overnight. Remove to look for proof of abridged water or a discolored appearance of the concrete surface.
Choose an epoxy to coat a floor. It must contain an epoxy resin, a clear or silpada viscous liquid. You will also require a prompt, which is a part of a multi-part epoxy system that causes the resin to solidify. Buy epoxy in a two part package to make sure the resin and hardener are compatible. Read mixing directions carefully to insure proper proportions are mixed.
A pigment is a good idea to get rid of the semi-transparent material that is epoxy. Pre-pigmented packages are the best bet, but separate tones can be purchased as well. Texturing materials such as sandblasting and PVC plastic granules give different textures and degrees of grip.
Lastly, install the coatings per the manufacturer’s instructions. Use a paint roller with an off shoot handle to apply the material to the floor. Begin at a back corner so you can work your way toward an exit as you roll. Overlap each roller path by one half its width. Keep plenty of material in the roller and recoat the roller if it begins tacking.
Work the roller as quickly as possible as epoxies is employed in one hour or less. Dispose of the roller when finished and invite the epoxy to cure completely. Observe recoat times carefully. Recoating after waiting too long is as bad as not waiting long enough.